The thrill of riding a perfect wave comes with its risks, as advanced surfers know all too well. Ever wondered why people risk their lives on waves like those in Nazaré? The unavoidable dangers of the sport—such as powerful waves, strong currents, and unpredictable ocean conditions—are also what makes surfing so adrenaline-pumping and exciting.
We don’t need Nazaré-sized waves to keep our adrenaline pumping—a solid 2-meter wave can already deliver the rush we crave! But building confidence is key when tackling waves like these. Let’s dive into some tips to elevate your surfing skills and keep your thrill-seeking spirit alive.
Have you ever stopped to think about how much time we spend riding waves compared to all the effort it takes to get there? Surfing demands effectively paddling out to the lineup, finding the right position (while hoping there’s no strong current), paddling to catch a wave, maneuvering, and then doing it all over again for just a few seconds of pure adrenaline and euphoria. This explains why advanced surfing often takes much more time—even years—to improve compared to many other sports.
If you want to speed up your learning process, you need to be dedicated, and consistent, gain experience in diverse ocean conditions, and practice outside the water.
1: Learn to Pick the Perfect Wave
The foundation of a great surf session lies in choosing the right wave. Look for waves with a clean face, steeper angle, consistent shape, and enough power to sustain a long ride. Don’t go paddling for every wave — Prioritize quality over quantity. It’s great to be motivated, but doing so will waste a lot of necessary energy. Balance your energy and choose wisely; one well-chosen wave can be far more rewarding than catching several mediocre ones.
2: Fine-Tuning Your Position for Peak Performance
Your positioning in the water can make a huge difference when it comes to catching epic waves. Look for the peak where the waves break most consistently and with the best shape and power. Adjust your spot constantly to match the wave’s movement—being too far out means missing the wave while sitting too far in can cause it to break over you. (If the crowd is overwhelming, consider finding another peak. It might take a bit longer for the sets to come in, but it will maximize your chances of catching waves)
Your position on the wave, on the other hand, is a game-changer, it takes time and practice, but it’s the key to longer, smoother rides. To get the most out of every wave, stay near the wave’s peak, where it breaks with the most power. Position yourself slightly ahead of the breaking section—this ensures you can carve along the wave’s face instead of being caught behind it.
The right position saves energy, improves your timing, and sets you up for an epic, long ride!
3: Master the Art of Balance and Control
Strong balance and precise control separate advanced surfers from the rest. Keep your foot positioning correct to maintain better control over your board: Place your back foot on the deck pad to maneuver, and move it further forward on the deck to gain speed. To stay balanced: Stay low, keep your arms steady, and focus your gaze on where you want to go rather than down at your board.
As you navigate through more challenging and tougher conditions, you’ll need to rely more on your kinesthetic awareness and motor patterns. This is why balance and control training are so important. Here are some well-known exercises to improve your balance and control.
• Slacklining
• Surfskating
• Yoga and Pilates
• Surfflow training
• Balance board
4: Timing is Everything: Maximizing Wave Opportunities
Timing your paddling might be the most important yet challenging aspect of surfing. When should you start paddling? It depends on the shape and speed of the wave. Always keep an eye over your shoulder to anticipate when it will break and adjust your speed accordingly. Start paddling early to match the wave’s speed as it approaches.
(Hesitation can lead to missed opportunities. For example, on steeper and faster waves, we often hesitate or paddle less aggressively, fearing the high drop as the wave takes us to the lip. Instead, Paddle with confidence and fully commit, when the timing feels right pop up as the wave lifts you)
Tip: Waves often look 30–50% bigger when viewed from above. Don’t let this intimidate you—avoid looking down and just go for it. Embrace the drop!
5:Perfect Paddle Techniques
Efficient paddling is essential for catching more waves and improving your surf game. Here’s how to do it right:
• Explosion: 3 to 4 deep, consistent, and aggressive paddles.
• Stay centered on your board: If your weight is too far forward or back, it will affect your board’s speed and control. Avoid shifting your weight side to side while paddling—it might feel natural, but it’s not effective, and your ribs will thank you later.
• Avoid the double paddle: Some surfers use double-paddle right before popping up to gain speed, but this slows you down and will throw you off balance. Stick to single, steady strokes.
• Focus on proper foot placement: Keep your legs close together while paddling. A slight flutter with your feet can help you fully commit and gain speed.
• Breathe and stay relaxed: Breathe with each paddle stroke and stay connected to your board for smoother movement.
Mastering these basics saves energy and increases your chances of successfully catching the wave.
6:Learn, Watch, and Improve
If you’ve been surfing on your own without guidance or coaching, chances are you’ve been stuck at the same level for quite some time. Whether you’re an advanced surfer or looking to elevate your skills, expert feedback and instruction can make all the difference—you’ll see improvements in no time!
Having your coach in the water is excellent for guiding you. However, they often miss what happens after you catch the wave. That’s where surf classes with video analysis come in. Watching your movements in slow motion is an incredibly effective tool in the process of becoming a better surfer.
Conclusion:
Advanced surfing is a skill that takes years to master, but with the right training, mindset, and experience in diverse surf conditions, you can improve quickly.
Level up your surf skills by challenging yourself in world-class waves. The Mentawai Islands provide the ultimate playground for progression—a place where surfers can push their limits, grow, and build confidence.
